Yupper Jeff,
I had a similar starting issue. I had to get under the the driver side
dash, follow the rod down the steering column to the switch and replace
the switch. It takes about an hour of effort, and the switch is well
under 20 bucks. The trick is not to disturb the rod coming down the
column too much. If disturbed too much, then pulling the steering wheel
off of the steering column to get to the upper guts, adds time and
aggravation to the endeavor by having to reposition the rod at the point
of the ignition key cylinder (ouch).
Tamiami, you can trail the rod down the same way as I did with my 1987
Jeep Cherokee. The rod is internal until you are way under the dash.
Two sure signs that you ignition switch is bad:
1) through the past, the motion of turning your key has gotten easier
and easier through time. The resistance of the key cylinder is
contingent on the rod and switch.
2) in the RECENT PAST (within 6 months, say), you've had to turn the key
to the extreme limit of it's rotation ability to get the starter to
engage. The contacts in the switch are worn / further apart.
Disconnect the battery before beginning the endeavor. Do not let the
positive wire touch any grounded surface as you can potentially damage
the computer. Therefore, remove the negative connection first, then the
positive.
When you have to old switch disconnected out and in your hand before the
trash can, take a small screw driver and insert it into the rod's
connection port and shift the switch to get a feel of the action. It's
quite different from a new one. It will also shed insight on why one of
the mounting has a elongated slot for installment adjusting when placing
the switch back on the column.
Ken
I'm not a mechanic, Just a seasoned Jeep Owner.
Note: any time you disconnect the battery, your jeep computer will go
through a re-learn mode when you reconnect.
Post by Jeff StricklandPost by TamiamiPost by DougWAdded ramj+w
Post by TamiamiGreetings,
My 1996 Cherokee Country died suddenly yesterday and now won't even
turn over. I've replaced the fusible link to the power control
center and checked the starter relay which powers the starter
perfectly. But it still won't start. There is no power to the coil
when in the on position. Is there a fuse or another fusible link I'm
overlooking? All fuses I've checked seem in great shape. It's a 2wd
inline 6 and the keyed ignition switch seems to function correctly.
Thanks.
Apart from pulling and checking every fuse in the power center (under
the hood)...
By "turn over" do you mean crank or the engine just wont turn at all.
If the engine won't turn at all then the problem can be the solinoid
at the starter motor.
http://www.type2.com/bartnik/starter.htm
http://www.aa1car.com/library/1999/cm119948.htm
If you don't want to mess with it, just disconnect the battery,
remove the wires from the starter, drop the starter, and take
it to PepBoys/Canadian Tire/etc and they can bench test it for you.
...
If by "turn over" you mean it cranks but does not start
then keep reading.
pull the codes.
http://www.wjjeeps.com/faultcodes.htm
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/engine_codes.html
I'm thinking that on the 96 they didn't allow codes to be
pulled other than with the scantool. Try anway.
There is a relay (ASD) that powers the coil.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/diagnostics.html#enginefuses
You can swap it with the AC relay for testing.
However, the jeep will prevent the engine from starting if it's missing
any critical sensors. CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) is one of the
most common no-start problems.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/diagnostics.html#CPSdetails
Look on the side of your engine by the dipstic for a small connector
that runs down to the transmission. This is the CPS harness. Unplug
and replug that connection, then try starting again.
Thanks Doug. The engine will not turn over at all when trying to start
from the ignition switch. When testing the starter with the starter
relay, the starter works just fine in turning over the motor. I will try
swapping the relays to check the coil. When using the key to try and
start there is nothing at all. It seems that the crank position sensor
would not block the circuit to the starter motor while in the cranking
ignition switch position. The darn thing just seems dead from the key.
I'm about to crawl under and check the neutral safety switch on the side
of the tranny for loose connections, but after that I'm at a loss.
Thanks again.
If you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem can be the ignition
switch itself OR the Neutral Safety Switch. The Crank Sensor would allow the
motor to crank, but it would not start and there would be a Check Engine
light and code.
The Ignition Switch is two parts, the lockset (part you put the key into)
and its linkage, and the Switch that is connected to the lockset via
linkage. If the key has a different feel than you are accustomed to, then
the linkage or the switch has failed. I had an ignition linkage that broke
at the part that allows the steering to tilt. I was able to start my truck,
but I could not turn it off. (It was a Bronco, so your mileage may vary.) I
had the linkage in my CJ5 break somewhere, but I can't recall the symptom.
The swtich has contacts that fail.
I'm not sure if the NSS will generate an OBD II code, but for certain the
ignition switch and linkage will not generate one.
